Merlot

Wine Insights #6

When I got into wine, I started defending the honor of Zinfandel. Everyone I encountered seemed to know it as the sweet, white version that paved plagued the way for rosé. I was hellbent and foolish to prove them wrong.

Now, especially as I get older, I’m telling people to “leave Merlot alone.”

And thankfully, I’ve wised up.

I don’t mind the criticism, I welcome it. Let me drink Merlot by myself on the cheap.

You see, ever since a certain movie character screamed about Merlot, it’s been the punching bag of the wine world. Noobs and snobs alike are keen to tell you that Merlot sucks, because it’s an easy reach.

As with everything in wine, the truth is more complicated.

Book: Sideways by Rex Pickett

Had Rex Picket never dared to write a book about a wine-fueled weekend, we all might be enjoying bottles of Pinot Noir for under $20. Instead, we get boatloads of soft, plummy, delicious Merlot. Huzzah!

What many people don’t realize is that Book Miles and Movie Miles pined for two different wines. In the book, Miles coveted the ’82 Latour. In the movie, he yearns for his precious ‘61 Cheval Blanc.

The latter is a bit of movie magic. Miles slams both the Merlot and Cabernet Franc before slamming the Cheval Blanc—blended from both varieties—from a styrofoam cup.

Blog: Data Dive: Sideways and Its Impact on Merlot

There are many blog entries into the effects of Sideways on Merlot, but none newer, data drive and rich with industry perspectives than this article from SommTV.

My favorite quote comes from one of my favorite winemakers, Steve Matthiasson:

Matthiasson is definitive in answering the question, did Sideways actually kill Merlot? “It actually did. And it is a shame because we really love Merlot. It is a beautiful variety that shows terroir and makes wonderful wine.”

Listen to Steve.

But then again, don’t listen to Steve.

Bottle: 2017 Santa Ema Merlot

People tend to make wine this big thing, this transformative experience that waits behind every cork pulled. And as much as I love that thinking and often ask people their transformative wine experience, wine doesn’t have to change your mind.

Wine can be wine. And that’s where Merlot excels.

It’s delicious, and it makes you feel good. It’s often right between the spectrum of church wine and the best wine you’ve ever had. Reliable wine goodness.

This particular bottle of wine was a gift.

I must admit that I’m impossible to buy wine for: I buy what I want, I save and squirrel away special bottles, I have 50+ bottles on hand at any given time.

So when you show up with your bottle and give me the telephoned version of the lecture you received at the wine shop, I do my best to politely nod my head.

It’s sweet and thoughtful. But I’d much rather you brought me a bottle of something you enjoyed.

The 2017 Santa Ema Merlot didn’t set my world on fire, but it didn’t have to. But it might be my favorite wine I was ever gifted.

The beauty of it all is that the giver didn’t know how much I knew about wine. Only that I liked it and I have quite a bit in my house.

My guess is that this is one of their favorite bottles or something they opened very recently and liked.

We opened the wine on my daughter’s 3rd birthday, as we enjoyed takeout from her favorite restaurant. The wine was pretty damn good with my bison burger, and my wife liked it too–although we are without pairing notes on her chicken quesadilla.

So often we forget about the around the bottle, and that’s what really makes a wine taste special and stay glued to memories.

Final Thoughts

Merlot is good, and so is just about every wine grape variety. These days the playing field has been leveled and there is lots of good wine out there.

Diversification and technology are good for wine.

While Sideways may have drastically thinned the Merlot herd, what remains kind of rocks.

Take for example Matthaisson’s Red Hen Vineyard Merlot. If you ever wanted to see what a great vineyard and great winemaking were capable of, this would be it.